France & Spain Road Trip, Part 6, La Rochelle

Leaving Bayonne was like saying goodbye to a seldom seen friend after an awkward situation.  Glad to be going but regretting what happened. Today's trip would take me north through Les Landes, a flat and pretty featureless area, around the city of Bordeaux and on towards La Rochelle.

The drive from Bayonne to Bordeaux is about 180km of straight flat motorway and surroundings.  Away to the left is the Atlantic Ocean and the coastline here is home to Europe's longest beach which attracts surfers from all over the world.  Signs for towns with memories of earlier holidays appear and disappear as we travel north.  The flatness doesn't really change until you get to Arcachon, home to Europe's tallest sand dune and an important area for oyster cultivation. It is also the ancestral home of chef and author Anthony Bourdain (useless fact #1754).  

A number of years ago in Arcachon I watched two men play a game of boules in the shade of a tree.  Boules is a game of skill where players take turns is throwing/rolling their heavy metal boules closest to a small wooden ball or jack. It is often played on a flat gravel surface hemmed in by sleepers, as it was here, you change ends 13 times.  Secured in the shading tree was a bottle of pastis, the strong French anis drink, and two glasses.  Glasses were filled everytime they played from that end. Boules is a very popular game in France and I could see why.

St.Emilion

As you approach Bordeaux you are filtered on to a circumnavigating motorway or la rocade.  I've driven the rocade before and it was always very busy, today was no different. A wet busy motorway is not my idea of fun, so spying a sign post for St.Emilion and not having an agenda to keep I took my opportunity and escaped the traffic. 

St.Emilion is about 35km northeast of Bordeaux, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with picturesque squares and steep narrow streets lined with limestone buildings. It's also a rather famous wine producing area of Bordeaux or Claret red wine. The approach roads to the town are lined with the manicured lawns of famous chateaux, many offering tours and up market accommodation - bring the gold card. At the top of the town housed in an rather officious looking building is the Maison du Vin, my destination. Home to a sizeable collection of Grand Cru wines with prices ranging from "Mmm not bad" to "HOW MUCH!".  Being in the first group I treated myself to six bottles of Chateau Toinet Fombrauge 2007 and a bottle of Chateau Saint-Esprit 2005 to mark an impending significant anniversary.  Suitably stocked I got back in the car and meandered through the back roads for La Rochelle.

La Rochelle 

La Rochelle is a coastal city with an ancient past and a deep natural harbour.  It was the base of the German UBoat fleet in the Second World War. It has also featured in movies featuring submarines including Das Boot and Raiders of the Lost Ark.  It is also home to a university and 10,000 students - this was evident from the busy streets full of youngsters enjoying their freedom from home.  

Arcades

It's a well preserved city with beautiful arcade lined streets full of shops. 

But it also has time for the quirky and doesn't seem to take itself too seriously.

Flying Men

We were booked into Hotel St.Nicholas in the quartier or neighbourhood of the same name.  Rooms are comfortable, and the breakfast is good, served in a bright room backing on to a courtyard. The hotel has secure parking and is about one block back from the busy port area.  The surrounding streets are either very narrow oneways or pedestrianised making the area home to some great little bars and niche shops with a nice laid back atmosphere.

La Guinette Wine Bar

Dolphin

La Guinette wine bar makes no concession to the 21st century.  A flagstone floor and furniture of a certain vintage it's popular with locals of varying ages for a glass or two of wine.  The surrounding shops don't seem to sell anything remotely practical yet there's a steady stream of customers buying mementos.  There's also a good selection of cafes and restaurants in the area.
An amble through the arcade lined streets brought us to the city's ornate market and pre dinner drinks in the elegant and popular Cafe de la Paix. 

Cafe de la Paix

City Market

One slight drawback to a large student population is the prevalence of burger bars and similar.  Nothing wrong with a good burger but I can get one at home.  I was looking for sit down meal of local food.  After a bit of a search we found it on the waterfront at the unassuming Le 14. The place gets very mixed reviews and it certainly is not best in class but I would have no complaint.  Fresh seafood and fish with decent wine and good service, maybe I got lucky.

I enjoyed La Rochelle.  It had a good atmosphere and the streets were busy, obviously added to by the amount of youngsters out and about.  I'd go back and would make it a stop on my next trip along the Atlantic coast.  It's rugby team is flying high in the French Top14 league while Bayonne struggle in ProD2.  Maybe there's a link.  I'll have to go back to do some careful research.