France & Spain Road Trip, Part 5, Bayonne

I pointed the car north east and left Pamplona, promising myself I'd return.  Tired of motorway driving I took the back roads and headed for Bayonne in French Basque Country.  The route took me through Roncevalles , long a strategic post for French invaders and famous for the defeat of Charlemagne in 778 but now a quiet hamlet and important stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago who have walked over the Pyrenees.  Spain is the most mountainous country in Europe after Switzerland and the passes and villages of this region are definitely Alpine.  The route climbs steadily with tight switchbacks which certainly worked the cars gearbox.  The roads were busy with pilgrims and you couldn't help being conflicted between admiration for their efforts and doubts about their intelligence.  

Suddenly you notice that the road signs have changed from Spanish to French and you realise that you've crossed the border.  The directions showed St.Jean Pied de Port to be ahead so we called in to say hello and stretch the legs.  The town is the start of the Camino Frances and the place was busy with tourists and pilgrims. Too many for my liking, so legs stretched we headed for Bayonne.

Bayonne sits on two rivers, the Ardour and the Nive.  The Ardour was the frontier of the Basque country in days of yore and formed a natural barrier from Gascony to the north.  The city is definitely

Bayonne

Wine Merchant

Basque with architecture typical of the region.  Today the city is known for its hams, chocolate and its rugby team.  Not as famous as it's more glamorous neighbour and rugby rival Biarritz it would be my choice between the two. I first visited about 15 years ago when on holiday in the area and felt very much at home.  I've been back several times since including one fantastic rugby tour when we played the Bayonnaise Chamango, but those tales are not for here.



The main centre or Grand Bayonne is a series of narrow pedestrian streets with plenty of shops to lighten your wallet. Cafes and restaurants aplenty as you'd expect in a French town and both banks of the Nive are lined with places to eat and drink.  But there was something missing.  Maybe it suffered from comparison to Pamplona but the place was very quiet. Then again it was midweek, but it had none of the energy of it's Spanish cousin.  The difference between two sets of Basque people was marked.  France is generally reserved while Spain is extrovert.  The pintxo culture does not cross the border and many places were closed in the late afternoon.  I called to Bar Chai Ramina for a drink, closed.  I went to my favourite restaurant Le Chistera to book a table, closed.  I gave up and went back to my hotel.

Hotel Cote Basque

I was staying across the river in the St.Esprit area.  The Hotel Cote Basque is a renovated four storied building opposite the main railway station.  Good beds and showers with roof top views and central to everything.  The hotel lift was not for the faint hearted.  At least 1m squared with a lattice screen door it was a bit of a squeeze with luggage.  Secure parking was available at the station for €9 per day through the hotel, €20 otherwise.  The hotel receptionist recommended the nearby Restaurant le Bistrot Sainte Cluque for dinner. We had a very relaxed meal, with good food, good wine, very friendly service and a big warm welcome.  If you're in St.Esprit drop by.

Over all I was a bit underwhelmed if not disappointed by Bayonne.  I'm not sure why and I'm not sure what it didn't deliver but it didn't deliver.  It is what it is and shouldn't change to please me or any other tourist.  I have very fond memories of the place and when I do go back it will be on a winters weekend when the rugby is in full flight and the town is awake. 

Tomorrow is La Rochelle.