France & Spain Road Trip, Part 2, St.Jean de Luz

And so down the motorway we sped, past Bordeaux. past Biarritz, past Bayonne, down to the Spanish border.  Deep into French Basque Country where sitting in an arching horseshoe bay lies Saint Jean de Luz, our home for the night. 

St.Jean de Luz Beach

Jai Alai

Thanks to the modern wonders (to me at least) of modern SatNav we found our hotel easily. Odalys Erromardie is about 3km from the main town and near the main surfing beach, it provided secure parking and a few other creature comforts.  We checked in and headed for a swim in the hotel pool.  Suitably refreshed we donned the glad rags and headed for town. We decided to walk, there is a bus route which passes the hotel (#3) but we never saw it on either leg.  The evening was warm and humid and Mrs L required refreshments.  We stopped in to a local bar/tabac for a drink.  Behind the counter, past the bottles and shelves was a ball alley or fronton. 

Pelota is a catch all phrase for a number of traditional Basque ball games played against a wall, Jai Alai is probably the best known. The town has hosted the world championships in the past and we passed several flood lit frontons on our walk, highlighting the sports popularity.

The town appears affluent with well maintained shop fronts and houses being the norm. Strolling through the narrow streets there were plenty of upmarket shops and expense account restaurants. Not the kind of place to host the Waxies Dargle.  Undeterred, we forged ahead to the sea front. A well laid out prom, with plenty of people perambulating (one simply doesn't walk in St.J de L) in the evening sun, the beautiful and well maintained beach provided a great back drop.  There are are plenty of cafes and restaurants on the prom but having learned the cost of dining anywhere with a view and being allergic to menus depicted in photos I passed them by.  

Passed them by until I was informed by Mrs L that we were going in here. Here was La Dauphin, a canvas roofed, picnic tabled terrace which ticked all my avoid boxes except for the photo menu.  I recoiled inside.  By the time I recovered Mrs L was sitting under the canvas roof.  We were no sooner sat than menus were placed on the table and drinks orders taken.

I may need to reassess my avoid like the plague criteria because we had a very good meal with a beautiful view of the bay.  Well prepared fresh turbut and sea bass at very reasonable prices, decent wine, good coffee and a digestif rounded off the meal. Appetites sated and thirsts slaked we strolled back to the hotel where an evening with Morpheus awaited.

Saint Jean de Luz is a busy upmarket resort town on the French and Spanish border. Depending on your budget value for money may be hard to find.  Would I stay again? Probably yes, but not for one night.  I'd stay for two to get a proper feel for the place and to get a swim on that beach. 

Next stop Asturias