France & Spain Road Trip, Part 7, The Final Leg

All good things come to an end, and so it was that we continued north to Brittany for a last night before the ferry back to Ireland.  Our last stand in France was to be in Carnac, signs for which I had passed many times but never visited.  En route to Carnac we stopped in Vannes to stretch the legs and have a nosey.  We arrived after 2pm and many cafes were closed or closing, someone from Bayonne must have rang ahead.  We had missing the national lunch time.  We found a creperie open and filled the gap.  Of all the foods that France is renown for the crepe must be the most pointless and overrated, still beggars can't be choosers. 

A post lunch stroll took us down to the little port area, plenty of people sitting in the September sun enjoying themselves.  The only shops open were the tourist shops selling the same tat.  How many bowls with peoples first names on them do French shops sell in a year?  The central pedestrianised area of Vannes is very picturesque and quaint with clean streets and well maintained buildings.  But there were very few open on my visit and with nothing to hold me I hit the road again.  I'm sure I missed some treasures, maybe next time.

On towards Carnac and Hotel La Licorne. The hotel is about 10 minutes walk from the beach and faces the salt marches.  It's more of a B&B than a hotel but very comfortable and nicely decorated.  The owner was very friendly, the room was spacious with a view of the marches.  Secure parking was available free of charge, what more could you need.  One settled we took a trip up to the old town of Carnac.  A night market was just setting up and people were pottering about or getting the bread for their evening meal. The area is gentile and appeals to families with young kids and those looking for peace and quiet.  We walked back down by the beach area which has plenty of dining options.  We walked along the beach front and for reasons best known to someone else we chose the ugliest looking place to have our meal.  Some of what they skimped on in interior design they obviously invested in a chef.  The food was good with fresh fish and good salads.  On the way back to the hotel we dropped into a random bar for a night cap, it had a large selection of dark and spiced rums with no names or labels familiar to me.  A nice Venezuelan 9yr old spiced rum was the perfect way to finish a nice meal.

The next day was crisp and bright, and the view of the salt marches from my room was excellent, a perfect day for being out and about. 

Salt Marshes

Menirs

Carnac is known for its formations of menhirs or standing stones, so we made a bee line for there after breakfast and checkout.  The stone structures continue for about 4km and like other similar sites in UK and Ireland very little is known about them apart from age.  Apart from that they're wasn't much to hold me in Carnac.  Keeping to the back roads I sauntered north towards Roscoff and the ferry home.  One thing you notice when driving through France is the amount of crops grown.  On our journey north we passed huge fields of vines, sunflowers, corn, and in the north fields of cabbages and artichokes.  Makes you wonder what a so called agrarian country like Ireland actually does with it's arable land.  Hours later deep in Brittany the national lunch hour was approaching and if you're not in on time you're resigned to the service stations, a cruel fate.  On a rural road we approached a welcoming place.  It was Auberge du Poher, and it was open.  We parked up, joined the other car in the carpark. And a lone bicycle. On entering you are brought back in time.  Late '60s to early '70s. We were greeted by the matron of the house, who was probably responsible for the decor.  We were led down a corridor with various a joining unlit rooms.  Through a door and into the main dining room where the decor standards were maintained.  Two tables were occupied, one with the other car occupants the other by the cyclist.  There was a set meal of local produce, things were looking up.  Homemade terrine, breast of lamb from their farm and a home made tiramisu followed by coffee, probably the best meal of the trip in the most unassuming place for the princely sum of €42 for two.  After my crepe experience this redeemed Brittany food and cooking.  In rapid French the matron described the food and it sources (I think).  I understood about every 10th word, noticing my struggle she asked me where I was from.  On hearing Ireland she continued her rapid delivery but mentioned Brexit and rolled her eyes.  I'm not sure of it's context but to my relief she was called away and I paid the bill and left.  If you find yourself in darkest Brittany and fancy an entertaining meal look the place up, you'll eat worse without the sideshow. 

Roscoff

We got to Roscoff with time for a stroll around the picturesque village before our ferry departed. There's not much in Roscoff, tourist shops selling tat and cafes which seem to depend on ferry passengers.


This was a super trip with some great experiences.  Asturias and Pamplona were my personal favourites followed by La Rochelle. I drove approximately 2,600kms at my own pace and with the freedom to go where I pleased.  Driving may not be to everybodies taste but this time round it beat the hassle of airports and repeated security checks.  There is the added bonus of being able to carry home some good wines at prices that don't hurt.

Sláinte.